A very delicate collection femininity. Models fluttered down the runway in diaphanous gowns of organza, lace and filigree. The collection recalled the romanticism of "Marie Antoinette role-playing in her little farm on the grounds of Versailles" but of course many possessed a casual twist with long sleeves, high necklines and pockets. My favorite gown is one that incorporated all three of these details in a beautifully simple ivory.
I am so feeling the new Balmain under Olivier Rousteing. He's doing amazing work creating luxe garments while still maintaining the label's rock n' roll aesthetic. Olivier incorporated oversize pieces to this collection such as loose pajama pants in sumptuous quilted silk in a fabergé print and wide-leg trousers in everything from silk to plush velvet. There is a very regal feel about this collection. The sex factor is still present with skinny jeans and beautiful emerald green leather pants, jackets and shirts, all with gold button detailing.
Romanticism is always palpable in Valentino collections, this one being no exception. The eighties were a frame of reference for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli but in more of the cool elegance of Bianca Jagger. Ladylike silhouettes and light and lacy frocks showed restrained glamour, in the best possible ways.